Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
